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Koli 
"Striving lackadaisically for perfection."
United Kingdom
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 Posted - 01/09/2006 : 14:29:19
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I've trespassed long enough in 'Madrid Recommendations'...
I was encouraged to report back on my trip to the capital of the Czech Republic. I've written in more detail to my helpful guides, BaftaBabe, Rovark and Sean, but here are a few notes.
It's good to see lots of development going on in Prague, and plenty of evidence of new-found prosperity following the fall of the 'Iron Curtain'. We visited the Museum of Communism (not far from Wenceslas Square, where the Soviet tanks parked up to put pressure on the Czechs), and they certainly had a miserable time - and that on the back of the Nazi occupation of the late 1930s-mid 40s.
We finally saw the clock do its tricks in the Old Town Square, and did our fair share of wandering around the medieval streets between there and the river. The Charles bridge is, I agree, a must. We also walked along the river bank, on both sides of the Vlatava.
We had a tour of Josefov where Sean stayed. This included a walk through the Jewish cemetery as well as more synagogues than I've visited in the past 50 years. I even got to keep a souvenir koppot. The wonderfully named 'Old-New' synagogue was interesting (though pricey), and the Spanish synagogue was beautiful.
We spent a few hours up at the Hrad (Prague Castle), where we visited the splendid St Vitus's Cathedral, Old Royal Place, Golden Lane etc. A bit like I imagine Disneyland, though made from real stone.
No trips outside the city this time, though if we go again I'll want to visit Terezin - the town turned into a ghetto then transit camp for Jews by the Nazis - and BaftaBabe's suggestion of Karlova Vary, which looks stunning. And Rovark's castles if there's time.
I can't comment much on the food, as I was sub-par most of the time we were there, but there seem to be a huge number of cafes and restaurants per head of population. Before I was struck down I had a bottle of Budvar 'Super Strong', which was splendid stuff. I also tackled a plate of goulash with dumplings, though I think you need to be at your best to do it justice. The kids' favourite place is a Tex-Mex called Buffalo Bill's (also close to Wenceslas Square), where they and Mrs Koli dined no fewer than three times. 
I found that there were nice places to eat & drink even quite close to tourist hot-spots such as the Old Town Square - I'd definitely recommend the Ebel Coffee House in a courtyard to the east of the Tyn church. But I was slightly disappointed by some of the cafes the guides rave about: we went to Kava Kava Kava twice and I wasn't impressed by either their cappuccino or their cafe au lait. (Compulsory sprinkling of cinnamon on a cappuccino is a decided no no in my book.) Nice ambience though. We visited the Franz Kafka cafe in Golden Lane rather than the one in Josefov, which was possibly a mistake: the ambience was fine but the drinks were indifferent (more cinnamon, and UHT milk). As Rovark says, a touristy thing to do but an essential.
All in all, one of my favourite foreign cities, alongside Barcelona, Florence, Amsterdam and Zurich. I'll certainly want to go again.
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shoon 
"Five(ish?) years as a fwiffer"
Sheffield, Yorkshire, England
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Posted - 01/09/2006 : 14:37:32
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Interesting...
How were the nightclubs? 
And more importantly, was it cheap? I'm headed there on Sunday for a post exams booze up. I'll report back in a similar, but I expect les detailed way. I don't intend on seeing much bar the inside of alchoholic establishments.
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Koli
"Striving lackadaisically for perfection."
United Kingdom
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Posted - 01/09/2006 : 14:48:12
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I didn't get to see inside any night clubs. Even if I'd been fully fit they're not really my scene. My 18-year-old went to the Ungelt Jazz Club (near the Ebel Coffee House) a couple of times, but he's not into night clubs either. Note that jazz clubs tend to be advertised as free to enter, but when you get there there's an admission charge of maybe 300 crowns (about £7.50).
While I'm in warning mode, other things to watch out for are:
 taxi drivers who respond to a request to "take me to where the action is" by taking you to some place outside the city mainly because you've then got to pay them to take you back again;
taxi drivers loitering in the tourist hot-spots, who are famous for ripping off customers;
pickpockets (mainly in the tourist areas; fortunately we haven't noticed anything missing - yet).
But the beer's cheap.  |
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ChocolateLady 
"Cecilia Tessieri, maître chocolatier"
Israel
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Posted - 01/09/2006 : 14:56:46
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From my recollection, Prague isn't all that cheap, but its more reasonable than London, that's for certain.
By the way, the extra expense to get into the "Old-New" Synagogue is due to the damage by floods a while back and they need the extra cash to help finish paying for the renovations of the effected buildings. I was more impressed by the cemetary with the collected tombstones from all over - really puts things into prespective.
Didn't you try to see one of their blacklight theater shows? They're really fun and since they're mostly pantomime (I think we heard less than a dozen words spoken throughout the whole show), everyone can enjoy watching them.
Of course, their pride in being the place where Mozart premiered "Don Giovanni" promted us to see an opera there - but the only thing showing was "La Boheme", but we still liked it.
And while tourism is on the table, if anyone has some good ideas for me and my husband's visit to Bratislava and the mountains of Slovakia, do let me know.
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Koli
"Striving lackadaisically for perfection."
United Kingdom
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Posted - 01/09/2006 : 17:13:51
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quote:
Originally posted by ChocolateLady
From my recollection, Prague isn't all that cheap, but its more reasonable than London, that's for certain.[/br]
Much cheaper than London I'd say. The equivalent of £5 will buy a whopping pizza and a drink in Pizzerie Donate (Ujezd 31, Mala Strana - not far west of Charles Bridge) or Pizzeria Rugantino (Dusni 4, east of Old Town Square). Just avoid the tourist hot spots.
quote:
Didn't you try to see one of their blacklight theater shows? They're really fun and since they're mostly pantomime (I think we heard less than a dozen words spoken throughout the whole show), everyone can enjoy watching them.[/br]
Nah. My lot don't do theatrical.
I thought about going to a blacklight theatre show, but didn't really feel up to it. The others were more interested in stuffing their faces in Buffalo Bill's. |
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GHcool
"Forever a curious character."
Los Angeles, CA, USA
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Posted - 01/09/2006 : 17:20:41
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| Sounds great, Koli. Prague would have been my second choice. I'll be in Madrid in 2 days from now. I'll write my report after I return to LA. |
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shoon
"Five(ish?) years as a fwiffer"
Sheffield, Yorkshire, England
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Posted - 10/09/2006 : 02:16:26
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quote:
Originally posted by Koli
I've trespassed long enough in 'Madrid Recommendations'...
I was encouraged to report back on my trip to the capital of the Czech Republic. I've written in more detail to my helpful guides, BaftaBabe, Rovark and Sean, but here are a few notes.
It's good to see lots of development going on in Prague, and plenty of evidence of new-found prosperity following the fall of the 'Iron Curtain'. We visited the Museum of Communism (not far from Wenceslas Square, where the Soviet tanks parked up to put pressure on the Czechs), and they certainly had a miserable time - and that on the back of the Nazi occupation of the late 1930s-mid 40s.
We finally saw the clock do its tricks in the Old Town Square, and did our fair share of wandering around the medieval streets between there and the river. The Charles bridge is, I agree, a must. We also walked along the river bank, on both sides of the Vlatava.
We had a tour of Josefov where Sean stayed. This included a walk through the Jewish cemetery as well as more synagogues than I've visited in the past 50 years. I even got to keep a souvenir koppot. The wonderfully named 'Old-New' synagogue was interesting (though pricey), and the Spanish synagogue was beautiful.
We spent a few hours up at the Hrad (Prague Castle), where we visited the splendid St Vitus's Cathedral, Old Royal Place, Golden Lane etc. A bit like I imagine Disneyland, though made from real stone.
No trips outside the city this time, though if we go again I'll want to visit Terezin - the town turned into a ghetto then transit camp for Jews by the Nazis - and BaftaBabe's suggestion of Karlova Vary, which looks stunning. And Rovark's castles if there's time.
I can't comment much on the food, as I was sub-par most of the time we were there, but there seem to be a huge number of cafes and restaurants per head of population. Before I was struck down I had a bottle of Budvar 'Super Strong', which was splendid stuff. I also tackled a plate of goulash with dumplings, though I think you need to be at your best to do it justice. The kids' favourite place is a Tex-Mex called Buffalo Bill's (also close to Wenceslas Square), where they and Mrs Koli dined no fewer than three times.
I found that there were nice places to eat & drink even quite close to tourist hot-spots such as the Old Town Square - I'd definitely recommend the Ebel Coffee House in a courtyard to the east of the Tyn church. But I was slightly disappointed by some of the cafes the guides rave about: we went to Kava Kava Kava twice and I wasn't impressed by either their cappuccino or their cafe au lait. (Compulsory sprinkling of cinnamon on a cappuccino is a decided no no in my book.) Nice ambience though. We visited the Franz Kafka cafe in Golden Lane rather than the one in Josefov, which was possibly a mistake: the ambience was fine but the drinks were indifferent (more cinnamon, and UHT milk). As Rovark says, a touristy thing to do but an essential.
All in all, one of my favourite foreign cities, alongside Barcelona, Florence, Amsterdam and Zurich. I'll certainly want to go again.
Places in bold I also liked. The Astronomical clock was very poor, we must have gone at the wrong time. I enjoyed the Kafka museum, and there were some nice parks (in all of which football was played), and the John Lennon Wall is pretty psychadelic too.
The beer was awesome. Strong stuff, and being a pansy British teen, it didn't take much for me to be very merry. Food was decent, although we did eat fast food and Italian every night. 
Loved it though. Great place, I must say. People are a bit brisk for my liking, and it seems we were offered drugs on every street corner, which is annoying, but on the whole a great holiday and served it's purpose as a pre-uni beer fest rather well. |
Edited by - shoon on 10/09/2006 02:18:18 |
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Sean
"Penguin + crittercam."
New Zealand
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Posted - 10/09/2006 : 12:29:16
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quote:
Originally posted by shoon
The beer was awesome.
No doubt about that!  quote:
Food was decent, although we did eat fast food and Italian every night.
Probably a good move. Traditional Eastern European is about as boring as food can ever be. They don't understand the words "flavour" or "variety".  quote:
Loved it though. Great place, I must say. People are a bit brisk for my liking, and it seems we were offered drugs on every street corner,
Things must have changed since I was there, I was never offered drugs once.
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BaftaBabe 
"Inventive hound applies science."
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Posted - 10/09/2006 : 13:04:38
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quote:
Originally posted by Seán
Traditional Eastern European is about as boring as food can ever be. They don't understand the words "flavour" or "variety".
Obviously you never met my grandmother.
Beautifully prepared weiner schnitzel, sauerbraten, sweet and sour red cabbage, pork stew, chicken paprika and air-light dumplings, rich fruit tarts ... resist 'em if you dare.
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Koli
"Striving lackadaisically for perfection."
United Kingdom
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Posted - 10/09/2006 : 16:08:22
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quote:
Originally posted by shoon
Places in bold I also liked. The Astronomical clock was very poor, we must have gone at the wrong time. I enjoyed the Kafka museum, and there were some nice parks (in all of which football was played), and the John Lennon Wall is pretty psychadelic too.
I found out afterwards that, to get the best out of the clock's performance, you have to stand right in front of it. Only then do you see the several different characters appearing on the hour.
Loved it though. Great place, I must say. People are a bit brisk for my liking, and it seems we were offered drugs on every street corner, which is annoying, but on the whole a great holiday and served it's purpose as a pre-uni beer fest rather well.
Don't know what I did wrong, but no one offered me drugs once 
Some of the older people were trained under Communism, when service in shops etc was anything but friendly. I found several of the older shop assistants surly, and I suspect that was the reason. But I found that most of the younger people were friendly enough, and they seemed to appreciate my faltering attempts to speak the odd word of Czech. |
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Sean
"Penguin + crittercam."
New Zealand
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Posted - 11/09/2006 : 00:45:10
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quote:
Originally posted by BaftaBabe
quote:
Originally posted by Seán
Traditional Eastern European is about as boring as food can ever be. They don't understand the words "flavour" or "variety".
Obviously you never met my grandmother.
Beautifully prepared weiner schnitzel, sauerbraten, sweet and sour red cabbage, pork stew, chicken paprika and air-light dumplings, rich fruit tarts ... resist 'em if you dare.
I never found anything even remotely as interesting as this on both my visits to Czech. And even the food that did sound moderately interesting on the menu was flavourless and very repetitive.
BTW, your grandmother's food sounds more German/Austrian than Czech. |
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BaftaBabe
"Inventive hound applies science."
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Posted - 11/09/2006 : 01:00:57
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quote:
Originally posted by Seán
quote:
Originally posted by BaftaBabe
quote:
Originally posted by Seán
Traditional Eastern European is about as boring as food can ever be. They don't understand the words "flavour" or "variety".
Obviously you never met my grandmother.
Beautifully prepared weiner schnitzel, sauerbraten, sweet and sour red cabbage, pork stew, chicken paprika and air-light dumplings, rich fruit tarts ... resist 'em if you dare.
I never found anything even remotely as interesting as this on both my visits to Czech. And even the food that did sound moderately interesting on the menu was flavourless and very repetitive.
BTW, your grandmother's food sounds more German/Austrian than Czech.
Aww, you'll just have to make your way over here so I can tempt you with some home cooking! When you were in C'slovakia, did you only eat in restaurants, or did anyone invite you to their home? I've found that in a lot of countries which are opening themselves up to tourism that there's a tendency for restaurants to adjust their menu to what they think the tourists might want. Which is v. sad. And mostly wrong! BTW -- there's lots of crossover in slavic cuisine ... e.g. some Hungarian paprikash has a heavily smoked flavour, while Czech paprika dishes have a fresher taste.
Anyway, I'm sorry you didn't get to taste the food at its best. Do penguins have a national cuisine?
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Edited by - BaftaBabe on 11/09/2006 01:02:17 |
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Sean
"Penguin + crittercam."
New Zealand
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Posted - 11/09/2006 : 04:11:19
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quote:
Originally posted by BaftaBabe
When you were in C'slovakia, did you only eat in restaurants, or did anyone invite you to their home? I've found that in a lot of countries which are opening themselves up to tourism that there's a tendency for restaurants to adjust their menu to what they think the tourists might want.
I only ate out, i.e., restaurants etc. But, it was definitely local food, i.e., pork, knoodle, sauerkraut etc. This kind of stuff here, none of which sounds terribly interesting to me (all quite edible and nourishing if hungry, but to me it lacks 'joie de vie' and balance, I wouldn't want to cook any of this stuff.)
Not to mention the impossibility of finding any drinkable wine to cut through the grease in everything. I recall we resorted to the most expensive restaurant in Czesky Krumlov in despair, in a bid to find something nicer and a decent wine to go with it, and the best wine on the list would have cost about $4 from the bottom shelf of a supermarket anywhere in the Western World. There was definitely no foreign food available in town at the time, if there was I would have headed straight for it.
Gimme raw live fish any day!
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Rovark
"Luck-pushing, rule-bending, chance-taking reviewer"
UK
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Posted - 11/09/2006 : 22:01:33
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quote:
Originally posted by Seán
Not to mention the impossibility of finding any drinkable wine to cut through the grease in everything. I recall we resorted to the most expensive restaurant in Czesky Krumlov in despair, in a bid to find something nicer and a decent wine to go with it, and the best wine on the list would have cost about $4 from the bottom shelf of a supermarket anywhere in the Western World.
Why would you go to the country that gave us real ( not the US version) Budweiser and Pilsen lager and drink bloody fermented grape juice. Good grief.
A lunchtime snack below Prague castle consisted of pork knuckle ( about half it's damn leg as far as I could see) with some dumplings, a few desultary green beans and a litre of beer. The meat was superb, just fell off the bone and the beer good enough to warrant another half-litre to follow. I felt almost embarassed getting in a 'girle' half litre but 2 litres would have rendered me incapable for the rest of the afternoon.
Mmmmmmm meat and beer
For the slightly more refined palate their game were pretty good, duck with plum sauce and wild boar with I-can't-remember-but-it-was-very-nice sauce.
But I do agree that the usual stew with dumplings combo on offer, while hearty and filling is not the most inspiring meal.
At the risk of repeating myself
Mmmmmmm meat and beer |
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Sean
"Penguin + crittercam."
New Zealand
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Posted - 12/09/2006 : 00:50:47
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I've never found a food/beer combination that I liked. Particularly for greasy high-protein food, the acid in wine is most necessary to cut through it, and tannins to cleanse the palate ready for the next mouthful. So at dinner time I want wine, wherever I am on the planet.
But I totally agree about Czech beer, they set the standard for the rest of the planet. It's second to none.
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bife
"it's a bit nippy ..."
Singapore
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Posted - 12/09/2006 : 01:08:34
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quote:
Originally posted by ChocolateLady
And while tourism is on the table, if anyone has some good ideas for me and my husband's visit to Bratislava and the mountains of Slovakia, do let me know.
I took a day trip to Bratislava about 7 or so years ago, while I was working in Vienna. Not sure that it's fair to judge a place on the basis of a day trip, particularly one for which I hadn't prepared at all (I just turned up at the bus station and wandered around), but it was the greyest, most uninspired collection of concrete blocks I have ever had the misfortune to encounter, with hardly a redeeming feature to be found. It was everything you would expect from an eastern europe communist-era city.
I guess in fairness, I can say that the people seemed friendly and genuine, and willing to help. I wouldn't plan on going back though
Interested to hear if with more trip planning, or the passing of time, whether you might find it more agreeable than I did |
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